Burgoo: History Behind Kentucky’s Infamous Dish

BURGOO

What is Burgoo, and Why Do We Eat it in Kentucky?

If you’ve ever been to race at Churchill Downs or Keeneland, you’ve certainly noticed the popular Kentucky staple burgoo dish. If you’re not from the area, you most likely have never even heard of burgoo. Also referred to as “road kill stew”, it’s a spicy stew typically made with an assortment of meats, vegetables, and BBQ sauce. You will often see it served with cornbread or crackers.

Although its hard to point out the exact person that invented the stew, it’s said that Gus Jaubert made it for his soldiers during the Civil War with whatever game-like meat he could kill.

burgoo
Source: Preserving Memories

Many others will argue and say that the stew comes from freed slaves. They would serve the dish in large batches at livestock sales. Another theory suggests that burgoo can be traced back to the Native American’s.

1909 POSTCARD MAKING BURGOO IN OLD KENTUCKY

Kentucky Burgoo & Horse Racing:

Burgoo has been served at livestock sales since as early as the 1800’s. Horse racing traditionally began as a way to persuade attendees to buy horses. Undoubtedly, horse races became extremely popular events where politicians and people of money would gather. Cooks would travel to racing events and sold bit in massive batches as way to survive.

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The Kentucky Derby started in 1875, and eventually the tradition of eating the stew came along with it. Importantly, Keeneland Racetrack is one of the most popular spots for Burgoo. They’ve been serving it since the 1930’s with a recipe using pork, garlic, sage, carrots, okra, corn, and thyme. It’s also cooked with Worcestershire sauce, then cooked for numerous hours in a big kettle.

Fun Fact: Keeneland goes through 100 gallons on a weekly basis!

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Although Kentucky racing has brought on the tradition of eating burgoo, they are not the only establishments to sell the popular stew. Several restaurants make it the traditional way, using meats such as pork butt, beef chuck, rabbit, mutton, and chicken

they are not the only establishments to sell the popular stew. Several restaurants make the dish the traditional way, using meats such as pork butt, beef chuck, rabbit, mutton, and chicken

How Do You Burgoo? >> Check out Chef Ouita Michel’s famous recipe.

The Burgoo Kings’

There was even a legendary American Thoroughbred racehorse named Burgoo King (which was also the nickname of a talented burgoo cook named J. T. Looney) who won the Kentucky Derby in 1932.


James T. “Col. Jim” Looney, a Lexington grocer, known locally as the “burgoo king”, watched over a kettle of the regionally popular stew known as burgoo at the Blue Grass Fat Lamb Show and Sale at Clay Gentry Stockyards on June 22, 1946. See More.

The dish has always been served as a means to bring people together, and this tradition thankfully still holds true today. Next time you have access to some good ole’ Kentucky burgoo, make sure you try it!

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